The joy of onsen...
Onsen - Japanese hot springs - are one of the greatest things about Japan. For the foreigner they are one of the few compensations for the additional earthquake risk. For the Japanese they are very much part of the culture being a relaxing trip away with friends, a excuse to go out with the family or the ideal destination for a dirty weekend (Atami is good for this). Onsens are especially scenic in winter, Hachou no Yu near Nikko is a good example.
Onsen etiquette
Leaping naked from the onsen and standing naked with arms and legs wide apart in joyful celebration of mans oneness with the natural world is a common gaijin response to a trip to the onsen, but does not constitute good onsen etiquette in Japan. However such behavior it is far less offensive than getting even the smallest drop of soap in the tub which is the most common gaijin onsen faux pas.
Besides the soap in the bath issues there isn't too much that can go dramatically wrong in the onsen other than accidentally walking into the ladies section and even this would likely be more of a problem for the ladies than the average Japanese gaijin. The onsen kanji guide below should even help out with this.
Simple steps to onsen happiness
This fantastic picture pretty much shows you what to aim for. Alter people will spot Doraemon to the right, also apparently having a day's soak.
The first step at many onsens is to take off your shoes and lock them with your valuables at lockers near the front desk - onsens are normally slipper or bare feet. Then pay at the reception desk and you'll normally be given a set with a small towel and another key to a locker in the changing rooms. Its always a good idea to bring your own towel to an onsen - some places expect this and can't even rent you one! After this its off to the changing rooms. Look for the sign that says 男 or 殿 and avoid 女or 姫 if you are a man; other way around if you are a girl.
Points for onsen joy
Below are a couple of useful points to know when you visit the onsen...
- Mixed onsens
Some onsens are mixed or "konyoku", with men and women bathing together. Thanks to the pernicious influence of Christian missionaries nowadays this means either bathing suits are required or in the more liberal places towels, while optional, will still tend to be worn by the lady guests.
- Children
Children also love onsens. Babies aren't always allowed in though, owing to risk of unchi in the onsen water. An onsen in a hotel may well almost certainly allow children to use an onsen style bath in your room but policy varies for the main onsen. Public onsen tend to have a rule and be more restrictive.
- Girls in the boys, boys in the girls
Provided you are under around nine or ten years old this seems pretty much OK.
